Can cold-hardy grapes heat up Minnesota’s wine industry?

By E.M. Morrison
Photo by Rolf Hagberg and Kay Mithaugen

There are more than 12,000 varieties of domesticated grapes, but only a few are “just right” for Minnesota.

Nevertheless, U of M researchers hope there’ll soon be more vines dotting the state’s riparian hillsides.

Over the next five years, the University plans to release some new varieties of cold-hardy grapes — hybrids expected to spur rapid growth in Minnesota’s emerging grape and wine industry.

Old as Noah
Grape cultivation is nearly as old as civilization. The Bible’s Noah planted a vineyard and grape seeds were entombed with mummies in ancient Egypt. In Homer’s day, wine was an important agricultural commodity, and by Roman times, viticulture had spread throughout Europe.

Domesticated grapes came to the New World with the first colonists. Even in Minnesota, amateur enthusiasts have grown grapes for 150 years. “It may seem farfetched, but we have a good climate for grapes,” says Peter Hemstad, U of M research viticulturist, who has 10,000 vines under trial.

“Knowledgeable judges find wines made from Minnesota grapes to be very good quality,” adds John Marshall, a grape grower from Lake City.

The sandy soils of the Minnesota and Mississippi river valleys are good for grapes. And there’s strong interest in viticulture here, with more than 400 members in the Minnesota Grape Growers Association. “Ours is one of the largest grape growers’ associations in the country,” says Hemstad, association vice-president.

Too darn cold
What has slowed development of a commercial grape industry in Minnesota? In a word: winter.

“The limiting factor has been the necessity to cover the vines in the winter to protect them from damage,” Hemstad explains. “That puts us at an economic disadvantage compared to other parts of the country.”

To develop the industry here, cold-hardy grapes that will make quality wines and survive reliably in winter are needed, Marshall says. He grows Bluebells, a winter-hardy table grape developed at the U of M. He has also planted 500 Frontenac vines, developed by the U of M to survive northern winters on the trellis. It also makes a nice red wine, Marshall says.

Start out small
The new cold-hardy grapes should encourage agricultural diversification, says Lisa Gjersvik, manager of AURI’s Waseca office. “It’s an opportunity for growers to get into an alternative crop with less up-front investment.”

Grape operations require less startup capital than traditional farming, and grapes will grow on marginal land.

Furthermore, grapes are a high-value crop. Gross revenues can run up to $4,000 per acre, Hemstad says. And processing grapes into wine can increase their value as much as tenfold. “There aren’t many other crops you can grow legally with such a high gross return.

Think bigger
AURI has been working for several years to promote the grape industry, providing loans for both wine and grape juice processing, and funding research on cold-hardy cultivars. The Minnesota Legislature has also recognized the need for grape research. Last year, lawmakers provided funds for a professional winemaker and research winery at the U of M. “That will be a big boost to our industry,” Hemstad says.

Admittedly, Minnesota’s grape industry is still tiny — roughly 100 acres and 25 commercial growers. Only one or two growers make a living primarily from grapes and the state has just four grape wineries — in Hastings, New Ulm and two in Stillwater.
Still, Marshall says, look at what happened in Oregon’s Willamette River Valley. Thirty years ago, the region had only fruit farms and nurseries. “In the ’60s, a few vineyards were planted, and some varieties, especially Pinot Noir, grew very well. The industry took off, and today there are over 40 wineries in the valley.
With the right cold-hardy varieties, Marshall believes something similar could happen here. “It wouldn’t surprise me to see 1,000 acres of grapes in Minnesota in ten years and a dozen wineries.